Mt. Kilimanjaro Photo: Peak Freaks

The Peak Freaks expedition company will be heading to Tanzania for their yearly New Year’s Mt. Kilimanjaro climb.  The team will be lead by Tim Rippel and will be taking off on December 27th.  The Mt. Kilimanjaro expedition has become a yearly New Year’s tradition for Peak Freaks and offers the opportunity to climb one of the famed seven summits on one of the world’s biggest holidays.

This year’s New Years itenerary includes a 3-day/3-night wild African safari.  Ther Mt. Kilimanjaro climb and safari can be purchased together, or you have the opportunity to partake in each of these trips on their own.

The Peak Freaks website ofers more information on pricing, what to expect, and what is involved in such a magnificent New Years expedition.  I couldn’t think of a cooler way to spend New Years than looking over the African Savannah from the top of Africa’s highest peak.  Go check out their site for more information.

Fred Beckey photo by Rod Mar NYT 2008

Fred Beckey is one of climbing’s greatest warriors.  Some people won’t recognize his name.  Most of his greatness came before many of us were born.  Some of his greatness came before many of our parents were born.  Oddly enough, Fred Beckey is still climbing.  Even more odd–he is 85 years old and has recently been profiled by The New York Times.  So who is this guy?

Wikipedia doesn’t carry much information on Fred.  Maybe that’s because many people probably know some of his accomplishments, or even read many of his books, but his name is just ‘normal’.  That factor couldn’t be further from the truth.  The one interesting thing that Wikipedia does have up, is the following quote:

Fred Beckey has achieved enduring recognition as the most imaginative, persistent, and thorough explorer and mountain investigator of the Cascade Range Wilderness. He was noted as “one of America’s most colorful and eccentric mountaineers,” and is unofficially recognized as the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. In addition to being the author of the Cascade Alpine Guide series, Beckey is also the author of Mountains of North America, The Range of Glaciers: Exploration and Survey of the North Cascades, and a personal narrative, Challenge of the North Cascades.

This quote is being attributed to Mountaineers Books. To look at Fred’s history and accomplishments might shock you:

Fred Beckey has made more first-ascents, the first person to top out on any given summit, than anyone else in the world.  His very first attributed climb happened to be a first-ascent of Mt. Despair in 1939.  His last?  Who knows, it could be years from now.  Fred Beckey is still rounding up climbing partners to tackle unknown peaks in Spain.  That was his plan for 2008. After more than 70 years of climbing some of the world’s toughest and unknown peaks, Fred Beckey is still going strong.  He has never had a major injury, never taken a major fall, but has been around when many of his friends and climbing partners have succumbed to tragedy.

Fred Beckey has also written the book on climbing.  Literally.  He has actually written a few books that now stand as all-time classics of mountaineering literature.  These include the following taken from Wikipedia.

• Range of Glaciers: The Exploration and Survey of the Northern Cascade Range (Oregon Historical Society, 2003 ISBN 0-87595-243-7)
• Cascade Alpine Guide (3 vols.) (Mountaineers Books, 1973-2003)
  • Columbia River to Stevens Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2000, ISBN 0-89886-577-8)
  • Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass (1973, 3rd ed. 2003, ISBN 0-89886-152-7)
  • Rainy Pass to Fraser River (1981, 2nd ed. 1995, ISBN 0-89886-423-2)
• Challenge of the North Cascades (1969, 2nd ed. 1996, ISBN 0-89886-479-8)
• Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America (Mountaineers Books 1993, paper 1999, ISBN 0-89886-646-4)
• The Bugaboos: An Alpine History (1987)
• Mountains of North America (1986)
• Mountains of North America (Sierra Club, 1982)
• Darrington and Index Rock Climbing Guide (Mountaineers Books, 1976)
• Guide to Leavenworth rock-climbing areas (Mountaineers Books, 1965)
• Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains of Washington (American Alpine Club, 1949, revised edition 1953)

His three-volumn Cascade Mountain Guide still ranks as the best overall view of this majestic range.  Only someone who has experienced the majority of peaks in the Cascades, could provide as much detail as Mr. Beckey.  Each of his books define classic mountaineering, explain things in the utmost detail, and provides one with the needed information and guides to tick off a few of these peaks from our own lists.  Some of these books have become ‘the’ list.

Early in his climbing life, Fred Beckey took a different road to mountaineering.  When he started climbing, big peak alpine expeditions were all the rage.  Mr. Beckey preferred to climb with as small a group as possible, while also rebelling against the height factor that so many had come to know as the greatest challenge.  While others were putting in plans to summit Everest, Beckey would be ticking off first-ascents in the Cascades, Alaska, Colorado, and more.  His numbers soon started to add up and people started to notice that Fred Beckey was his own man and was going to do things his own way.  In a sense, he had become a rebel of mountaineering and would follow this path for the next 70 years.  He never really cared much about what people thought, he would just continue on and tick off one first-ascent after another.

The following comes from the recent New York Times profile and goes into a bit about Mr. Beckey’s climbing history.  Now you can hold your breathe in awe:

Many of the climbers of Beckey’s era, their lives staked on trust and cooperation, grew wary of his gruff manner, his outlier reputation, his intransigence. He was labeled a showboat, a womanizer and worse. When his partners were hurt or killed on expeditions, including Charles Shiverick in the Coast Range of British Columbia in 1947 and Bruno Spirig in the Himalayas in 1955, Beckey was criticized. In the early 1960s, as the first American team was assembled to summit Mount Everest, no one invited Beckey.

Setting out with his brother, Helmy, Beckey put up new routes across Wyoming, Colorado, California, British Columbia and Alaska. Though he preferred Alpine scenery, he climbed desert rock formations, icy crags and boulders, the Gunks, the Bitterroots and the Bugaboos.

As other mountaineers began to focus on repeating ascents for speed, Beckey roamed Europe, China and the North American backcountry in search of unconquered peaks. By his own account, he climbed Mount Rainier, a two-hour drive from Seattle, only five times. In the summer of 1954 alone, he scaled Mounts McKinley, Hunter and Deborah in the Alaska Range, an accomplishment that became known as his Triple Crown of First Ascents. By 1963, when he logged 26 first ascents in a single year, his legend was secure.

I like how it mentions that he climbed Mt. Rainier only five times.  To many climbers, Mt. Rainier is still an epitome peak and something to strive and take pride in achieving.  Most never even get to that ability level.  Need more proof of his prowess?  It is said that Fred Beckey still climbs more than most professional climbers, many of those he could still put to shame.

The New York Times does an excellent job of looking back on over 70 years of climbing, while also evaluating what his accomplishments have meant for the world.  Their article starts out at an internet rumor that Mr. Beckey was looking for a climbing partner for some uncharted first-ascents in Spain, digging deeper into the rumor, an amazing story on the history of American mountaineering begins to unfold.  It is a great feature on one of America and the world’s greatest mountaineers.  Be sure to stop by and watch the accompanying video that shows Fred Becky in action. If you are at all interested in mountaineering, or some of America’s greatest climbing pioneers, I highly recommend that you read this article and find out what many of us never knew about Fred Beckey.

This is the trailer for the documentary “Verticle Frontier”.  Verticle Frontier takes a look at the history of climbing in Yosemite National Park.  I am told that this movie is available thorugh Netflix if you would have an interest in seeing it.

Bhutan is situated near Nepal and lies smack-dab in the middle of the Himalayan mountains.  It’s seclusion from nearby neighbors has forced the nation into a state of poverty.  Most Bhutan’s live on less than $1,000 per year.  This majestic Buddhist nation didn’t even have a paved road till the 1960’s, something else that may attest to it’s seclusion.

The “Land of the Thunder Dragon” name comes from the turbulent weather brought on by being in the Himalaya region.  Often violent storms will sweep down on the nation from the upper altitudes and bury it in high winds and snow.  Bhutan’s weather isn’t always turbulent though.  Especially if you arrive before the monsoon season that begins near the start of June.

In the distant past, western foreigners were not even allowed to enter this nation.  In 1974 that all changed.  That does not mean that foreigners can come and go as the please–Bhutan still limits the number of tourists allowed in the country during any given year.  it is best to contact someone close to their government, or book a vacation get-a-way through a travel agent.  They should be able to take care of the details.

Things to do in Bhutan include mountain climbing and hiking, or just walking around and enjoying the sights, sounds, and scenery of a country that has less than 21,000 tourists a year.  If your trip right, you may be able to witness and partake in one of their public holiday festivals:

Bhutan has numerous public holidays, most of which center around traditional seasonal, secular and religious festivals. They include the winter solstice (around January 1, depending on the lunar calendar), the lunar New Year (February or March), the King’s birthday and the anniversary of his coronation, the official start of monsoon season (September 22), National Day (December 17), and various Buddhist and Hindu celebrations.

These holidays are often highlighted by festivals of food and dance that encourage participation from those on hand.  You may even be able to participate in Bhutan’s national sport:  Archery.

Bhutan’s national sport is archery, and competitions are held regularly in most villages. It differs from Olympic standards not only in technical details such as the placement of the targets and atmosphere. There are two targets placed over 100 meters apart and teams shoot from one end of the field to the other. Each member of the team shoots two arrows per round. Traditional Bhutanese archery is a social event and competitions are organized between villages, towns, and amateur teams. There are usually plenty of food and drink complete with singing and dancing. Attempts to distract an opponent include standing around the target and making fun of the shooter’s ability.

Bhutan is definitely one of the world’s most intriguing destinations.   Tourists don’t often have the chance to visit, or just forget that it is out there.  With little media (the first television station in Bhutan was launched in 1999) and a reclusive Buddhist population, Bhutan exists pretty much like it has for thousands of years. From secluded monasteries to mountains, raging Himalayan waterfalls to small secluded farms, Bhutan offers a little something for everyone–but not everyone has that chance.

For your next vacation, why not give this remote country a second look.  Best bring your checkbook and traveler’s checks though.  On average, Bhutan costs tourists $200 a day.  One of the more expensive, desolate, tightly controlled tourists destinations in the world.

Sources:  National Geographic,  Wikipedia, Lonely Planet

Photos:  Map–National Geographic, Taktshang Monestary “The Tiger’s Nest”–Wikipedia

More Information:  CIA World Fact Book:  Bhutan, Bhutan Government, PBS:  Bhutan

Travel:  Bhutan Visit, Kingdom of Bhutan, Bhutan Tours and Treks

Notice: If you have taken a trip to Bhutan recently, I would love to hear your coments and trip reports.  Post them in the comments below and they may show up on a later update on this site

Xtreme conditions call for Xtreme gear.  Whether your running an ultra-marathon in the Sahara, or taking a nice jaunt up Mt. Rainier, one of the toughest elements to face is usually the sun.  Oakley sunglasses have been around for nearly 20 years.  In that time, they have established themselves as one of the leaders in outdoor, big adventure, extreme condition eye wear.  Sports athletes swear by them.

The Oakley Classics Radar Range sunglasses takes the styling from yesterday and adds the technology of today.  These glasses are tuned to prevent sweat and rain from building up on the lenses, sort of like built in windsheild wipers–without the blades.  You want more features?  Check these out:

RADAR features Oakley HYDROPHOBIC, a permanent lens coating that prevents rain and sweat from building up on the lens
* It also repels skin oils and other contaminates, so the lens is smudge resistant and easy to keep clean
* It even eliminates static electricity, so dirt and dust particles won’t cling
* Lenses feature the unbeatable clarity of Oakley’s HIGH DEFINITION OPTICS (HDO)
* Nosepiece is made of UNOBTAINIUM to increase grip with perspiration; Oakley’s Three-Point Fit optimizes comfort and holds the lenses in precise optical alignment for superior clarity
* RADAR is made of lightweight O MATTER

One feature that Paragon Sports left out is that these glasses are now on sale at nearly 60% off.  These normally retail for $175.00.  Today’s special price:  $85.00.

Don’t forget that Oakley Sunglasses come with a 100% Lifetime warranty.

Take Me To The Deal!!

Simon Dumont has been classified as a skiing prodigy since he first strapped on the bindings.  In recent years he has risen to fame during the yearly X-Games competition, and has won a few medals to go with his ’skiing prodigy’ name.

It should be noted that Simon Dumont’s record attempt also came on the world’s tallest quarterpipe.  The quaterpipe was specifically constructed for this event and stood an amazing 38 feet tall and 75 feet wide.  When Simon finally hit the quarterpipe for what would become the record attempt, he was launched 35 feet in the air, giving him a total height of 73 feet.

Simon’s new record was sponsored by Redbull, who with Simon, made this attempt a highly-focused, crowd generating extravaganza.  The previous mark of 32 feet, 6 inches, was accomplished back in 2007 by snowboarding legend Terje Haakonsen at The Arctic Challenge in Oslo, Norway.  For those of you wanting some added insight, Terje’s attempt came coupled with a backside 360.

EXPN, the Extreme side of ESPN, was on hand to capture the moment that Simon Dumont launched in the air.  They have wrote up an interesting report of the day, including Dumont suffering an injury during practice sessions before the final record getting attempt.  Dumont had hurt his knee while practicing and, after doctors had looked at it, decided to make one last pitch at the record.  I bet he’s glad he went for it now!

To read EXPN’s full report, you can follow this link.  This article was originally published on April 11, 2008.  Photo:  Christian Pondella, EXPN

If you have ever dreamed of being driven around the arctic by a pack of dogs aka. Jack London style, then you will get a kick out of the adventure being proposed by Snowball Expeditions.  Snowball Expeditions is currently offering a dog sledging adventure that will trace part of the Canadian-United States border.  This will be your chance to mush a team of dogs in the frozen tundra of arctic like terrain–if you have ever been in northern Minnesota or Montana, then you know the winters can be quite dreadful and rival anything the arctic has to offer.

Snowball Expeditions is a small expedition company based out of the UK.  They genrally run one or two amazing adventures a year, with their eyes set on being different from what other adventure expedition companies currently do.  This latest adventure nicely fits that bill.  Mark Wood helps run this outfit and you can get a glimpse of the kind of company they run by visiting his personal blog.  They take great pride in offering something that will provide excitement, adventure, and the opportunity to give you an amazing expedition that is rarely offered.

Here is what’s included:

• All dog handling training and instruction in the US
• Airport transfers outside of the UK
• 3 night’s accommodation at Gunflint lodge.
• Team celebratory meal on the final night.
• Breakfast and full evening meals whilst on expedition.
• Hot drinks and energy bars on expedition.
• Team equipment supplied – tents, cooking equipment.
• Snowball guides and medical support
• Snowball expedition T-shirt
• Snowball expedition kit bag

The only bad part about this whole deal is if you live in the United States.  I am not sure on how that works with flight costs.  It is also noted that there is a 400£ deposit requirement to guarantee your spot on this expedition.  Total cost is only 1400£ for the trip of a lifetime.

The Snowball Expeditions Dog Sledging trip will begin on January 20th.  It is noted that if you are interested in joining Mark’s team, then you should email him and get signed up.  They only have 5 spots left on this great adventure and you wouldn’t want to miss out on the fun!  You can contact Mark Wood by following this link and get more information on joining this dog sledging adventure.

The Abu Dhabi Adventure Challenge will have participants showing their skills in sea kayaking, camel hiking, cross orienteering, mountain biking, adventure running, rope activities, and in-line skating.  That is a pretty varied list of events that will require all sorts of different skill sets.

The current team line-up can be found here.  It looks like there will be 37 teams competing in this years event, from 27 different countries.  These extreme adventure races always offer up some exciting action and interesting team play, while also throwing in some interesting factors.  Last year’s Abu Dhabi Adventure Challenge seen many of the participants struggle with the camel hiking-an event that many were hoping would not return.  It does make for an interesting twist, trying to control and maintain an animal over a designated area, that most adventure races couldn’t quite incorporate.  Only in the deserts of Abu Dhabi does this event stand a chance of offering an extreme element to the race.  Put these camels in their own environment, lash them to a couple of racers vying for $230,000, and let the fun begin!

The Adventure Blog will be giving regular updates on this event.  I might even throw in a couple of these myself.  We will see how it pans out.  Good luck, everyone!

So what do we have to look forward to this year?

How about a summit attempt on Makalu?  Simone Moro and Denis Urubko are planning on an expedition to the only 8,000 meter peak in the Himalayas that remains unclimbed in winter.  Moro and Urubko continue to be two of the top climbers in the world.  Both have experience, separate and as a team, in attaining new routes, first ascents, and some of the toughest Himalayan climbing over the past few years.  This should be an exciting expedition.  Let’s wish them well on Makalu!

Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat will both see some action in the Karakorum’s this winter.  The team of Artur Hajzer, Robert Szymczak, and Don Bowie will be looking to capture the summit on Broad Peak, while a team of Polish climbers will be looking for the same results on Nanga Parbat.  Broad Peak could become the first 8,000 meter peak in the Karakorum to be summited.  As in years past, though, the Karakorum has turned back many people  due to terrible weather conditions.  High winds, snow, and the extreme cold don’t play nicely when it comes to winter climbing.  That seems to be one of the draws to these expeditions.  These guys are looking for an experience that they will never forget.    Let’s just hope that his ends up on the good side of things!  It will be very interesting to see how this season will pan out.

To read more on the upcoming winter climbing season in Himalayan and Karakorum ranges, be sure to check in at The Adventure Blog and Explorers Web.  Both of these sites, along with The Adventurist and Xtreme Adventurer, should be offering up some updates as the days tick forward.  Stop by and check back in often.

Photo:  Simone Moro.  Courtesy of Explorers Web.

Reinhold Messner has played many roles in life.  World famous mountain climber, Arctic and Antarctic Explorer, desert trekker, speaker, politician, and even museum curator.  Messner’s epic climbs will forever be remembered as some of the most grueling, horrifying, and glorious moments ever achieved by a true adventurer and a true mountaineer.

• First to Climb Mt. Everest without Oxygen
• First To Climb Mt. Everest Solo
• First To Scale all 14 of the world’s 8,000 meter peaks
• Third person to summit the Seven Summits (highest mountain on all seven continents)
• First Ascent North Face The Eiger
• First Ascent and new route up Nanga Parbat
• First AScent and new route up Gasherbrum I

Besides his great mountaineering achievements, later on in life Reinhold embarked on many more  Xtreme adventures:

He has been to the top of the world’s highest mountains, stopped in at the North and South Poles, and continues to embark on adventurous journeys to the far ends of the world.

Reinhold’s adventures have not come without a price.  In 1970, while attempting to climb a new route on Nanga Parbat, Reinhold’s brother Günther Messner would tragically be killed while trying to navigate the descent of Nanga Parbat’s Diamir Face.  Reinhold and his brother had successfully summited and put up a new route by way of the Rupal Face.  Reinhold Messner would come leave Nanga Parbat with three less fingers, seven less toes, and a brother that would be forever on the mountain.  Reinhold stayed behind to search for his lost brother, while his teammates packed up and left the mountain.  Reinhold Messner would go home empty handed.

In 2000, Reinhold returned to Nanga Parbat.  He still wanted to try to become the first person to summit from the Diamir Face.  His expedition would end due to bad weather.  A team member of Messner’s would come across a human bone.  In 2004, that bone would be attributed to Günther Messner through genetic testing.  Reinhold’s brother had been found.

Günther Messner really did descend Nanga Parbat’s Diamir Face, just as his brother Reinhold has always sustained. The confirmation arrives after genetic analysis on human remains discovered by the South Tyrolean mountaineer Hanspeter Eisendle at the foot of the West Face of Nanga Parbat. According to the anatomopatologo Eduard Egarter, in all liklihood the fibula belonged to Günther Messner. 100% confirmation.

This is coming from an original report published on January 25, 2004 at PlanetMountain

Reinhold Messner suffered 34 years for accusations that he had abandoned his brother on Nanga Parbat for a chance at the summit.  Many had thought that he had left his brother to die, while he walked away with the glory.  For 34 years, he would still climb.  The testament to his strength is that through the ridicule and torment of so much suffering, Reinold Messner still accomplished some of the greatest feats in mountaineering history.

To read an interview from Reinhold Messner. Click Here>>>

More Biographic Information Click Here>>>

Everest Unmasked:  First Ascent of Mt. Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen-1978  Click Here>>>

Reinhold Messner’s Personal Website  Click Here>>>

Reinhold Messner “The Chuck Norris of Mountain Climbing” Facebook Fanclub  Click Here>>>